Moncler Genius – Simone Rocha
Fall 2020 Ready to Wear
Pictures by Moncler
THE POWER OF COLLABORATION
Presenting the Third Installation of the Wildly Popular Moncler Genius Initiative
Moncler unveiled its third release of the Genius Project in a formidable warehouse setting for the kick-off to Milan Fashion Week, setting the bar high with strobe lights, acrobatics, new brand ambassador Will Smith, and a Rick Owens Americana tour bus….? Ok, let’s dissect. The initiative began in 2018 as a way to revive the aging sportswear brand, and breath new life into its designs, by enlisting designers and artists to create capsule collections based on the brand’s famous puffer skiwear. The mastermind behind it all is Moncler CEO Remo Ruffini, who took over the struggling brand in 2003 and has since transformed it into the most sought after label in luxury sportswear. The Genius Project has been immensely successful, especially by way of the Instagram crowd, gifting us with puffer gowns by Pierpaolo Piccioli, samurai puffers from Craig Green, and logo branding galore from Palm Angel, just to name a few. The 2020 season has expanded into accessories with displays from luggage brand Rimowa, Danish e-bike brand Mate. Bike and Poldo dog wear, for the little sidekick in your life who also enjoys a nice puffer.
The aforementioned Milan warehouse was sectioned off into eight separate performance areas, one for each collection. JW Anderson served spiked puffer scarves and handbags. Simone Rocha brought romantic elements with tulle and delicate floral prints, inspired by a Fellini ballerina. Matthew Williams’s edgy brand 1017 Alyx 9SM gave us serious outerwear envy complete with a Swarovski crystal dusted puffer. The “godfather of streetwear”, Hiroshi Fujiwara, debuted his fourth collection with Moncler for his Fragment brand, giving us wearable pieces that will be able to be personalized upon purchase. Richard Quinn brought retro-glam to his installation with 70’s flower prints and 80’s psychedelic swirls. He thrilled the crowd with a finale of sweeping puffer ball gowns with skirts big enough to hide your skis, snowboard, and instructor underneath. And Craig Green wowed the masses with his collection of newspaper printing press garments that were designed to echo a flat piece of paper or paper dolls, as well as a separate collection of colorful ensembles that were periodically blown full by bursts of air, mimicking a life raft with dangling appendages and a flat surface.
Only three years in, the Moncler Genius initiative has not only become one of the most coveted fashion week tickets, but also revived a brand and cemented the power of the collaboration. Although many designers today would love the chance to work with Moncler, one decided to forge a different path when approached. Rick Owens could have easily created a bombshell collection, yet instead opted to use the Moncler name to customize a tour bus that he and his wife, artist Michèle Lamy, drove through the southwest deserts of America. The bus was on display in Milan for the 2020 Moncler drop, further pushing the boundaries of what fashion can and should represent.
Written by Elizabeth Kramsky