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VALENTINO

 

Valentino 

Fall 2020 Ready to Wear

Photos by Valentino

DARK DAYS AHEAD

A Diverse Cast Leads the Way in a Black Heavy Collection for Valentino 

Pierpaolo Piccioli was in a dark mood designing his Fall 2020 Ready to Wear collection for Valentino. Had the current bleakness of the state of the world got to him? Not at all. The designer was working with that trending theme of inclusivity as he sent out the first 25 pieces of his collection in an all-black motif. Although the uniform platform may have seemed redundant in color, the designs and cast of models were anything but. Plus-sized model Jill Kortleve had our jaws hanging open in a black leather dress with a thigh-high slit and a bustier neckline. Agender model Juno Mitchell followed in a black trench coat atop baggy pants and a sequined top. 42-year-old Belgium beauty Hannelore Knuts rocked a pixie cut and a baggy black leather cape dress accented by red gloves, and trans model Finn Buchanan walked with blue hair and a houndstooth overcoat. Menswear was unisex, another trend of the season, with male models in heavy eye makeup, sheer blouses, and interchangeable black coats. 

By look 26 the famed Valentino Red had crept its way into the collection, shown in coats and dresses, as well as shoulder bags and heels, creeping in between the parade of flat black boots. The show took a gentle turn as model Penelope Ternes appeared in a soft tan dress, with peekaboo halter cut-outs and attached cape, swirling around her legs like melted frosting; a welcome break from the severity of all the black and red, and led into embroidered, sheer and flowing chiffon ensembles. There were plenty of nipples, both men’s and women’s, fashion is equal now, ok? Evening wear began with Mia Brown in a black and silver metallic ombre gown, with a plunging neckline and sheer bottom half, and commenced with Valentino muse Adut Akech in a stunning red sequined column gown with high neck and long sleeves. 

It was a youthful showing for Valentino, the tunes of teen sensation Billy Eilish were played hauntingly by a suited orchestra, as leather and lace dominated the diverse cast. In the past, Piccioli has wowed us with his color stories and the drama of his infamous pieces. This collection may have appeared a more subdued showing for the storied Italian brand, yet the creativity, inclusivity, and exceptional quality reminds us that this is the new Valentino, and in Pierpaolo Piccioli we trust. 

Written by Elizabeth Kramsky